Skin aging is generally caused by a decline in the components of the extracellular matrix (e.g., collagen and elastin) and due to inflammatory phenomena. Many growth factors and peptides with cell-growth and collagen-synthesis activities have shown promise in their application in anti-aging materials. However, the effect of collagen production, without anti-inflammatory effect, and skin penetration may not be enough for their use in anti-aging agents. Previously, we reported a substance P (SP)-based hydrogel (SP gel) that had potential wound-healing activities via induction of skin cell regeneration and collagen synthesis. Here, we analyzed the anti-aging activities and skin absorption effects of SP gel to extend its characterization. Toxicity tests, performed on human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and on a reconstructed 3D human skin model, indicated SP gel to be safe for long-term use, without causing irritation, even at high concentrations. In-vitro analysis revealed that SP gel elicited stronger collagen production activities than SP alone, and promoted anti-inflammatory effects with increased skin absorption properties. Moreover, SP gel did not induce melanin synthesis in a keratinocyte-melanocyte co-culture system. Together, the results suggest that SP gel has potential cosmetic effects and applicability as a novel ingredient in anti-aging products.
Keywords: 3D human skin model; anti-aging effect; anti-inflammatory effect; cosmetic ingredient; skin absorption; substance P.