Valorisation of cotton post-industrial textile waste into lactic acid: chemo-mechanical pretreatment, separate hydrolysis and fermentation using engineered yeast

Background: The textile industry has several negative impacts, mainly because it is based on a linear business model that depletes natural resources and produces excessive amounts of waste. Globally, about 75% of textile waste is disposed of in landfills and only 25% is reused or recycled, while less than 1% is recycled back into new garments. In this study, we explored the valorisation of cotton fabric waste from an apparel textile manufacturing company as valuable biomass to produce lactic acid, a versatile chemical building block.

Results: Post-industrial cotton patches were pre-treated with the aim of developing a methodology applicable to the industrial site involved. First, a mechanical shredding machine reduced the fabric into individual fibres of maximum 35 mm in length. Afterwards, an alkaline treatment was performed, using NaOH at different concentrations, including a 16% (w/v) NaOH enriched waste stream from the mercerisation of cotton fabrics. The combination of chemo-mechanical pre-treatment and enzymatic hydrolysis led to the maximum recovery yield of 90.46 ± 3.46%, corresponding to 74.96 ± 2.76 g/L of glucose released, which represents a novel valorisation of two different side products (NaOH enriched wastewater and cotton textile waste) of the textile industry. The Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain CEN.PK m850, engineered for redirecting the natural alcoholic fermentation towards a homolactic fermentation, was then used to valorise the glucose-enriched hydrolysate into lactic acid. Overall, the process produced 53.04 g/L ± 0.34 of L-lactic acid, with a yield of 82.7%, being the first example of second-generation biomass valorised with this yeast strain, to the best of our knowledge. Remarkably, the fermentation performances were comparable with the ones obtained in the control medium.

Conclusion: This study validates the exploitation of cotton post-industrial waste as a possible feedstock for the production of commodity chemicals in microbial cell-based biorefineries. The presented strategy demonstrates the possibility of implementing a circular bioeconomy approach in manufacturing textile industries.