Phoenicians Preferred Red Pigments: Chemical Compositions of Make-Up Powders Found in Archaeological Sites from Sicily

Appl Spectrosc. 2020 Mar;74(3):295-304. doi: 10.1177/0003702819895313. Epub 2019 Dec 23.

Abstract

Little is known concerning Phoenician and Punic cosmetics, and pertinent studies and analyses on archaeological finds are particularly scanty. The present study has taken into account 22 archaeological red and pink Punic make-up samples collected in several Sicilian museums. The samples were analyzed by infrared spectroscopy, Raman microscopy, and surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS). The analyses revealed an interesting and unusual variability in the use of raw materials, ranging from the mineral to the organic world. Not only traditional dye-based pigments were identified, but also rare ones never reported previously for this use. We show also an occurrence unusual in antiquity of a lead chromate block presumably intended to be ground just before its use in cosmetics.

Keywords: Phoenicians; Raman spectroscopy; SERS; make-up; pigments; surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy.