The application of nanoemulsions as a novel delivery system for lipophilic materials, such as essential oils, flavors, and fragrances is one of the growing technologies used in cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries. Their characteristic properties, like small droplet size with high interfacial area, transparent or semi-transparent appearance, low viscosity, and high kinetic stability, make them a perfect vehicle for fragrances, in the perfume industry. They could be a great alternative to water-based perfumes, without alcohol, and solve problems related to the oxidation and low bioavailability of fragrances with other non-alcoholic vehicles of perfumes like pomades or gels. The aim of our study was to develop stable Oil-in-Water (O/W) nanoemulsions that are compatible with selected fragrance compositions, without ethanol, polyols, and ionic surfactants, and to study their physicochemical, microbiological, and dermatological properties. The nano-perfume systems were obtained with a low-energy (Phase Inversion Composition; PIC) and with a high-energy (ultrasound, US) method, taking into account the possibility of moving from the laboratory scale to an industrial scale. The optimized nano-perfume formulations, prepared with different methods, yielded the same physicochemical properties (stability, medium droplet size of the inner phase, polydispersity, viscosity, surface tension, pH, density). Stable systems were obtained with a fragrance composition concentration within 6⁻15% range. These formulations had a low viscosity and a pH suitable for the skin. Moreover, the obtained results confirmed the protective role of nanoemulsions. The peroxide number measurement (POV) showed that the tested fragrance compositions had a high chemical stability. The results of the microbiological tests confirmed that the obtained products were free of microbiological contamination and were appropriately preserved. The dermatological test results confirmed the safety of the developed preparations.
Keywords: fragrances; nano-perfumes; nanoemulsions.