To investigate the hypothesis that aberrant HLA and adhesion molecule expression in alopecia areata (AA) are secondary to local release of interferon-gamma (IFN-gamma) or other cytokines, we have studied HLA ABC, -DQ, -DR and ICAM-1 expression by immunohistochemistry, and compared patterns of expression in lesional tissue sections with those observed in hair follicles maintained in short-term organ culture, both from normal individuals and non-lesional sites in AA patients. The organ cultures were supplemented with IFN-gamma, tumour necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha), and granulocyte-macrophage colony stimulating factor (GM-CSF), in a range of doses. In lesional AA tissue sections, there was close spatial correlation of ICAM-1 with HLA-DR; prominent staining being noted in the pre-cortical matrix and dermal papilla (DP) of lesional anagen follicles. In cultured follicles, dose-dependent induction of HLA class I, DR and ICAM-1 by IFN-gamma, and HLA class I and ICAM-1, but not HLA-DR, by TNF-alpha was observed in follicular epithelium, mainly in the outer root sheath (ORS). The findings in these cultures were the same in follicles derived from normal individuals and AA patients. Cytokine-induced patterns of HLA and ICAM-1 expression observed in vitro in cultured follicles differed significantly from those observed in vivo in lesional tissue sections. In particular, IFN-gamma failed to induce HLA-DR expression in the pre-cortical matrix and dermal papilla (DP), sites where this is usually observed in AA. The results suggest local cytokine release is not the sole determinant of aberrant HLA-DR expression in AA.