In this study the influence of fabric weave (plain, twill, and panama) and weft type (flax and hemp yarns) on selected mechanical and comfort properties of six fabrics was analyzed. The results showed that tear and abrasion properties were most affected by the weave. The tensile properties of the linen fabrics were not significantly different when weft hemp yarns were used instead of flax. Fabrics with the same weave seemed to be equally resilient to abrasion regardless of the type of weft. By contrast, the hemp weft yarns favorized the physical and comfort properties of the investigated fabrics. For the same weave, the hemp-linen fabrics were slightly lighter and exhibited lower bulk density, significantly larger air permeability, and improved moisture management properties. Although the results of maximum thermal flux (Qmax) suggested a cooler sensation of the linen fabrics with panama and twill, the hemp-linen fabric with a plain weave seemed to be the optimal choice when a cool sensation was desired. Higher thermal conductivity values also suggested slightly better heat transfer properties of the hemp-linen fabrics, and these were significantly influenced by the weave type. The results clearly indicated the advantages of using hemp for improving physical and specific comfort properties of linen fabrics.
Keywords: comfort properties; fabric weave; flax yarns; hemp yarns; mechanical properties.