An indicator color chart for quick detection of Pigment Red 53 in cosmetic products in Indonesia

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr 4. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16193. Online ahead of print.

Abstract

Background: Pigment Red 53 is a dangerous synthetic dye that is often added to cosmetics, even though its use in cosmetic products has been prohibited because of possible impacts on health. Faster and more sensitive detection of Pigment Red 53 is needed for onsite analysis to protect the community from illegal cosmetics that contain the dye. Indicator color charts are a kind of analytical method that can be used to detect Pigment Red 53 in cosmetic products, including lipstick, rouge, and eyeshadow. Such charts are practical, fast, and can be used for onsite analysis.

Methods: In this study, an indicator for Pigment Red 53 detection was obtained through a reagent reaction that caused a specific color change. An indicator color chart was then produced by setting out in paper form the series of colors which resulted from the reaction of specific chemical reagents and Pigment Red 53 solutions at concentrations of 10, 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100 ppm.

Results: The testing results showed that the indicator color chart may be used as an initial screening method for the detection of Pigment Red 53 in cosmetic products with a detectable minimum concentration of 10 ppm. Out of nine samples, only one (Eyeshadow 3) tested positive for Pigment Red 53. Further analysis was carried out on the indicator color chart and the results showed good agreement with TLC and UV-Vis spectrophotometry methods.

Conclusion: The results reported in this paper demonstrate that the indicator color chart is a good prospective method for onsite analysis to detect Pigment Red 53 in cosmetic samples, with a lower detection limit compared to polymer-based indicators.

Keywords: Pigment Red 53; analysis; cosmetic; indicator color chart.