A high-payload ascorbyl palmitate (AP) nanosuspension (NS) was designed to improve skin delivery following topical application. The AP-loaded NS systems were prepared using the bead-milling technique, and softly thickened into NS-loaded gel (NS-G) using hydrophilic polymers. The optimized NS-G system consisted of up to 75 mg/mL of AP, 0.5% w/v of polyoxyl-40 hydrogenated castor oil (Kolliphor® RH40) as the suspending agent, and 1.0% w/v of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose (Na.CMC 700 K) as the thickening agent, in citrate buffer (pH 4.5). The NS-G system was embodied as follows: long and flaky nanocrystals, 493.2 nm in size, -48.7 mV in zeta potential, and 2.3 cP of viscosity with a shear rate of 100 s-1. Both NS and NS-G provided rapid dissolution of the poorly water-soluble antioxidant, which was comparable to that of the microemulsion gel (ME-G) containing AP in solubilized form. In an ex vivo skin absorption study using the Franz diffusion cell mounted on porcine skin, NS-G exhibited faster absorption in skin, providing approximately 4, 3, and 1.4 times larger accumulation than that of ME-G at 3, 6, and 12 h, respectively. Therefore, the high-payload NS makes it a promising platform for skin delivery of the lipid derivative of ascorbic acid.
Keywords: ascorbyl palmitate; bead-milling; colloidal dispersion; dissolution; hydrogel; nanosuspension; skin accumulation.