Polygonum cuspidatum (PC) extract has been listed in the "Catalog of Used Cosmetic Ingredients (2021 Edition)", which can inhibit melanogenesis, thus exerting a whitening effect, and has been widely used in cosmetics. However, there are currently no quality standards for PC extract used in cosmetics, and the bioactive components associated with anti-melanogenesis remain unclear. In view of this, the present study was the first to investigate the spectrum-effect relationship between fingerprints of PC extract and melanogenesis inhibition. Ten batches of PC extract fingerprints were established by HPLC. Pearson's correlation analysis, gray correlation analysis (GRA) and orthogonal partial least squares regression analysis (OPLSR) were used to screen out resveratrol, emodin and physcion as the main whitening active ingredients using the inhibition of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells as the pharmacological index. Then, the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of the above three components were verified by tyrosinase inhibition and a melanin content assay in B16F10 cells. The interaction between small molecules and proteins was investigated by the molecular docking method, and it was confirmed by quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) that resveratrol, emodin and physcion significantly down-regulated the transcript levels of melanogenesis-related factors. In conclusion, this study established a general model combining HPLC fingerprinting and melanogenesis inhibition and also analyzed the spectrum-effect relationship of PC extract, which provided theoretical support for the quality control of PC extract in whitening cosmetics.
Keywords: Polygonum cuspidatum (PC); dopachrome tautomerase (DCT); melanogenesis; microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF); tyrosinase (TYR); tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1).