Revitalizing the skin: Exploring the role of barrier repair moisturizers

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 May;23(5):1533-1540. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16171. Epub 2024 Jan 12.

Abstract

Background: Moisturizers are designed to maintain skin health and treat dermatological conditions associated with impaired skin barrier function. However, differences in their composition account for the differences in their effect.

Aims: This narrative review aims to discuss the role of barrier repair moisturizers, highlight the role of different components in a moisturizer and their role in impaired skin conditions (e.g., dry, itchy, inflamed, sensitive skin, atopic eczema), and thereby empower dermatologists and pediatricians in selecting the right moisturizer.

Methods: PubMed, Embase, and Scopus electronic databases were searched from January 2000 to June 2023 for publications on skin barrier repair and use of barrier repair moisturizers for the treatment of dry, itchy, inflamed, sensitive skin, or atopic eczema. Studies conducted in humans, published in English for which full texts were freely available were included.

Results: The structure and composition of lipid lamellae within the stratum corneum play an important role in maintaining an effective skin barrier and protecting the body from various external assaults. Endocannabinoid mediators play an active role in maintaining skin barrier function. Moisturizers containing physiological lipids and functional ingredients (e.g., endocannabinoids such as palmitoylethanolamide [PEA]) and based on the principles of biomimic technology are demonstrated to be beneficial for the management of conditions associated with a disrupted skin barrier.

Conclusions: Moisturizer based on the innovative biomimic formulation has good cosmetic efficacy and is generally well tolerated, and the addition of PEA might represent a new generation of compounds that may be beneficial for long-term management of impaired skin conditions.

Keywords: N‐palmitoylethanolamine; biomimic technology; endocannabinoid system; moisturizer; skin barrier.

Publication types

  • Review

MeSH terms

  • Emollients / administration & dosage
  • Humans
  • Skin / drug effects
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin Cream* / administration & dosage
  • Skin Diseases / drug therapy
  • Skin Physiological Phenomena / drug effects

Substances

  • Emollients