Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) is a widely used fruit in the dietary supplement industry due to its richness in bioactive compounds. In this study, an experimental design was applied to optimize supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) of polar compounds of interest (ellagic acid and punicalagins), known for antioxidant and skin care properties from pomegranate's pericarp. The effects of temperature, modifier percentage, and water additive percentage added in the modifier were explored through a Box-Behnken design, followed by a study of the extraction kinetics. The results indicated that 40 °C, 20% EtOH:H2O 80:20 v:v, with an extraction duration of 60 min allowed for the highest recovery of the above-mentioned molecules (19.59 mg/g). Due to solubilization issues encountered by the extract, a screening of cosmetic solvents was carried out to solubilize SFE pomegranate extracts and a composition of Gly:H2O 80:20 v:v was selected. Furthermore, an integrated SFE pre-formulation process of pomegranate pericarp extract (PPE) was elaborated. This allowed for the recovery of the extracts in cosmetic solvent, avoiding a full evaporation. Finally, the stability of the pre-formulated extracts was evaluated and showed high stability for over 3 months at 5 °C.
Keywords: Box–Behnken design (BBD); cosmetic ingredient; eco-extraction; food waste valorization; modified supercritical carbon dioxide.