The effects of fucoidan-rich polysaccharides extracted from Sargassum horneri on enhancing collagen-related skin barrier function as a potential cosmetic product

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;23(4):1365-1373. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16108. Epub 2023 Nov 29.

Abstract

Background: Sargassum horneri came ashore after flowing from the South China Sea to Jeju Island a few years ago. This caused a significant environmental impact on coastal areas where S. horneri has accumulated because of decomposition and the release of toxic substances, such as hydrogen sulfide.

Aims: In this study, we evaluated a biological ingredient prepared from fucoidan-rich S. horneri and demonstrated its antiwrinkle effects on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced fibroblast cells.

Materials and methods: Fucoidan samples from S. horneri were prepared according to a previously published process with modifications. The compositional analysis of S. horneri fucoidan extract (SHFE) as well as its effects on antiaging were examined to determine its utility as a functional material.

Results: SHFE exhibited antioxidant properties using 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay. Treatment of UVB-induced fibroblasts with SHFE significantly increased the synthesis of procollagen compared with adenosine treatment and inhibited MMP-1 and MMP-3 expression. In a clinical study, SHFE lotion improved skin barrier effects in forearms and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values were reduced after 3 weeks of use compared with a placebo.

Conclusion: SHFE has utility as an additive with functional antiaging effects for a range of cosmetic products as it restores skin hydration in the epidermal barrier.

Keywords: Sargassum horneri; antiaging; cosmetic; polysaccharides; transepidermal water loss.

MeSH terms

  • Antioxidants / chemistry
  • Antioxidants / pharmacology
  • Collagen
  • Humans
  • Polysaccharides / chemistry
  • Polysaccharides / pharmacology
  • Sargassum* / chemistry

Substances

  • fucoidan
  • Polysaccharides
  • Antioxidants
  • Collagen