The impacts of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate in facial cleanser on facial skin microbiome and lipidome

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr;23(4):1351-1359. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16092. Epub 2023 Nov 21.

Abstract

Background: The human skin microbiome and lipidome are essential for skin homeostasis and barrier function, and have become a focus in both dermatological and cosmetic fields. However, the influence of surfactants commonly used in cosmetic products on the skin resident microbiome and lipidome remains poorly characterized.

Methods: We conducted self-control experiments to systematically study the effects of surfactant (sodium lauroyl sarcosinate [SLS]) on facial skin. Wrinkles, pores, porphyrins, and superficial lipids were examined to evaluate the biophysical state of skin. Quantitative real-time PCR was used to detect the numbers of bacteria and fungi. The diversity and structure of prokaryotic and eukaryotic microbiomes were assessed using 16S rDNA and ITS amplicon sequencing, respectively. Moreover, 22 lipids were identified to evaluate lipidome variations. SPSS software was used for statistical analysis.

Results: SLS in facial cleanser did not extensively influence skin biophysical parameters, but caused a decrease in porphyrin. After using the SLS-added facial cleanser for 3 weeks, the alpha diversity of the prokaryotic microbial community decreased significantly, while the eukaryotic microbial community showed a continuous downward trend but no statistically significant. A shift in the structure of prokaryotic microbiome was observed as a result of SLS exposure, mainly reflected by the increase in Acinetobacter, Escherichia-Shigella, Streptococcus, and Ralstonia, while the SLS had little effect on the structure of the eukaryotic microbiome. Furthermore, SLS exposure had a great impact on skin lipidome, mainly manifested by the increase of phosphatidylglycerol (PG) and phosphatidylcholine (PC), and the decrease of ceramides. Spearman's correlations analysis showed that Escherichia-Shigella, Pseudomonas, and Acinetobacter are positively correlated with PG and PC; however, the correlation is not statistically significant.

Conclusion: In this study, we found the SLS in facial cleanser primarily affected lipidome and the prokaryotic microbiome of facial skin. These findings are useful for reminding us to be vigilant about the ingredients in personal care products, even the common ingredients, and designing effective formulations for repairing ecological balance of skin.

MeSH terms

  • Cosmetics* / pharmacology
  • Humans
  • Lipidomics
  • Lipids / pharmacology
  • Microbiota*
  • Sarcosine / analogs & derivatives*
  • Skin
  • Surface-Active Agents

Substances

  • sarkosyl
  • Surface-Active Agents
  • Cosmetics
  • Lipids
  • Sarcosine