Fine wine recognition and appreciation: It is time to change the paradigm of wine tasting

Abstract

Wine quality maybe understood under two perspectives: (a) commercial quality, intended to satisfy overall consumers, and (b) fine wine quality, aimed at achieving a product with aesthetic value. The current food sensory techniques (e.g. Descriptive Analysis) have been successfully applied to develop wines accepted worldwide and characterized by pleasant sweetish flavours and smooth mouthfeel. On the contrary, these techniques are not suited to characterize fine wines given their dependence on sensory properties with aesthetic value. The conventional tasting approaches follow the sequence of vision, smell (orthonasal), taste and mouthfeel, ending by an overall evaluation. The sensory descriptors tend to be analytic (e.g. different aromas and tastes) or synthetic (e.g. body, structure) and the quality judgement is left for the final step. Some synthetic attributes may have an aesthetic significance (e.g. complexity, harmony, depth) and are more valued when the analytic or synthetic descriptors are highly praised (e.g. oakiness, silkiness, body, minerality). Consequently, these highly praised attributes are regarded as surrogates of fine wine quality. However, commercial wines are frequently judged of higher quality than fine wines irrespective of the taster expertise. We argue that the conventional sensory analysis sequence makes the overall evaluation secondary in relation to the previous analytical steps blurring the assessment of wine's aesthetic properties. Probably due to top-down processing, the initial evaluation of colour or flavours governs the final overall quality evaluation that may be inconsistently rated. Then, to promote the recognition of fine wines, tasting should begin by first acknowledging the aesthetic properties and only proceed to the analytical steps if necessary. A tasting method is proposed to consumer educational programs where emotional responses are used to explain the differences between commercial and fine wine styles. Furthermore, cultural aspects should be included to appreciate the wholeness of wine. Hopefully, this holistic perspective would turn wine appreciation more approachable and facilitate the recognition of fine wines among consumers, increasing their appreciation and enjoyment.

Keywords: Aesthetics; Consumer numbness; Emotions; Expertise; Fine wines; Mental imagery; Preferences; Quality.