The importance of incorporating hyaluronic acid (HA) as a cosmetic ingredient in skin care formulations emerged lately because the amount of HA naturally found in the epidermis decreases with age, and when applied to the skin through cosmetic products, it confers hydration and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Currently, the diversity of cosmetic products for mature skin and the use of various and innovative active ingredients supporting their anti-ageing effect represent ample proof that the cosmetic industry is currently relying on these actives. The main objective of this study was the development of an anti-ageing formulation, incorporating HA and different other active ingredients. The developed formulation contains a novel complex of natural waxes, with an essential role in the restoration of the skin's hydro-lipid barrier, in combination with innovative active ingredients-like low-molecular hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA), sodium hyaluronate (NaHA), ectoin, gold, and an anti-ageing botanical complex-contributing to optimal skin hydration specifically designed to reduce the visible signs of ageing. An important objective was represented by the skin compatibility and topography assessment after 28 days (D28) of regular application of the developed cream. Stability testing, physicochemical characteristics, and microbiological control, including efficacy testing of the used preservative (challenge test) were performed for the cosmetic formulation. In silico approaches were applied to demonstrate the safety of cosmetic-related substances and the risk assessment of the cosmetic formulation. Safety and instrumental evaluation were performed to demonstrate the skin tolerance-the compatibility and the efficacy, respectively-of the developed anti-ageing cream. As result, quality control of the developed cosmetic formulation evidenced an appropriate cosmetic preparation with desirable aspect and adequate physicochemical characteristics. The concentrations of restricted ingredients like preservatives and UV filters were in accordance with those recommended by the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and so were considered to be safe. Additionally, according to the margin of safety (MoS) calculation, cosmetic ingredients incorporated in the developed formulation could be considered safe. The developed formulation was very well tolerated, and wrinkle depth and length in the periorbital area were significantly reduced after 28-day cosmetic treatment. Subjects' assessment questionnaires revealed self-perceived benefits referring to the cosmetic qualities and efficacy of the anti-ageing cream. This study confirmed the skin tolerance and efficacy of the new complex anti-ageing cream incorporating HA, microencapsulated sodium hyaluronate, ectoin, and a botanical extract. The formulated cosmetic product could serve as a daily care for mature skin to alleviate the effects of skin ageing.
Keywords: active cosmetic ingredients; anti-ageing cream; efficacy studies; hyaluronic acid; in silico evaluation; safety assessment.