Mosses (Bryophyta), particularly species of the genus Sphagnum, which have been used for centuries for the treatment of skin diseases and damage, are still not explored enough in terms of their use in cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to determine the antioxidant properties of water-ethanol extracts from four selected species of the genus Sphagnum (S. girgenshonii Russow, S. magellanicum Brid., S. palustre L., and S. squarrosum Crome) and their impact on the expression of genes encoding key enzymes for the functioning of the skin. In this study, the effects of Sphagnum extracts on the expression of genes encoding tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and hyaluronic acid synthase in human dermal fibroblasts were determined for the first time in vitro. The extracts inhibited tyrosinase gene expression and showed antioxidant activity. The experiment showed an increase in the expression of some genes encoding collagenase (MMP1) or hyaluronidase (HYAL2, HYAL3 and HYAL4) and a decrease in the hyaluronan synthase (HAS1, HAS2 and HAS3) genes expression by the tested extracts. The obtained results suggest that using extracts from the tested Sphagnum species in anti-aging cosmetics does not seem beneficial. Further studies are needed to clarify their impact on the skin.
Keywords: NHDF cell line; Sphagnum mosses; antioxidant properties; collagenase; elastase; genes expression; hyaluronic acid; tyrosinase.