Cosmetic therapies for Chinese patients with acne taking concomitant or recent intake of oral isotretinoin: A retrospective study

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Nov;22(11):3168-3175. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15897. Epub 2023 Aug 17.

Abstract

Background: The current standard recommendation is to initiate the cosmetic therapies after discontinuing taking oral isotretinoin for at least 6 months. However, this recommendation has been questioned in several recent publications, and it is difficult to operate in clinical practice as early initiation of effective treatment is desirable for patients with acne sequelae.

Objective: The purpose of this study is to evaluate the efficacy and safety of chemical peeling and light/laser or radiofrequency treatments combined with oral isotretinoin for patients with acne vulgaris and acne scars.

Method: A retrospective study of 511 patients on/or recently administered with isotretinoin treated with glycolic acid, intense pulsed light, nonablative fractional laser, fractional radiofrequency, and ablative carbon dioxide laser. A total of 1352 interventions were performed. The medical follow-up lasted for at least 1 year. The efficacy and safety of different procedures were evaluated.

Results: A total of 511 patients, who were treated with isotretinoin orally or stopped for <6 months, received 477 sessions of glycolic acid chemical peeling treatment, 588 sessions of intense pulsed light treatment, 61 sessions of nonablative fractional laser treatment, 101 sessions of fractional radiofrequency treatment, and 125 sessions of ablative fractional carbon dioxide laser treatment. No hypertrophic scars and keloids were found, and the incidence of serious adverse reactions such as scarring, erythema, blisters, and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation did not increase.

Conclusions: It is safe to perform skin procedures in patients with acne and acne scars during or after discontinuation of isotretinoin for <6 months. Invasive treatments such as ablative fractional carbon dioxide laser treatment can be performed, as appropriate, by an experienced physician. The guideline of avoiding chemical and physical procedures in such patients taking oral isotretinoin should to revised.

Keywords: acne scar; chemical peeling; intense pulsed light; isotretinoin.