Investigation on the skin penetration of synthetic amorphous silica (SAS) used in cosmetic products

Toxicol Lett. 2023 Aug 3:S0378-4274(23)00236-9. doi: 10.1016/j.toxlet.2023.07.016. Online ahead of print.

Abstract

Synthetic amorphous silica (SAS) is used as additive in a variety of industrial applications for many decades and has been approved to be used in food, food contact materials, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. Due its internal structure, SAS is considered as a nanomaterial, thus it is affected by a general safety discussion. Based on the production process, SAS for cosmetic application is a nanomaterial by the EU Recommendation, although it was not considered as such, because the solely size-dependent definitions of the term "nanomaterial" emerged in recent times first in Recommendation 2011/696/EU. Therefore, former physicochemical and toxicological evaluations of SAS were already performed on nanomaterials, however, without being addressed as such. Safety concerns can only emerge if two criteria, (toxicological) hazard and exposure towards the substance is fulfilled at the same time. In case of SAS, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) challenged provided data to be insufficient to draw a conclusion regarding the safety of SAS and thus, requested further investigations, in particular by exploring skin penetration of particulate SAS.Investigation of specific particulate substances in skin penetration tests is an analytical challenge. The number of available analytical techniques that are capable to detect nanomaterials in complex matrices, like receptor fluids from skin penetration testing, are limited and still emerging. In the new studies, a comprehensive set of analytical techniques were used to investigate the skin penetration potential of SAS. Particle-sensitive, element and particle-specific combinations of techniques and different sample preparation procedures, that respected the particulate nature of SAS, were used to detect SAS in receptor fluids directly. In addition, electron microscopic techniques were used to examine different layers of skin to detect adsorbed SAS.The combination of Asymmetric Flow Field-Flow Fractionation (AF4) in combination with Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry (ICP-MS) for examination of receptor fluids and Scanning Electron Microscopy coupled with Energy Dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM/EDX) for examination of skin itself, were identified as suitable techniques for the detection of SAS in skin penetration tests. Data from literature was used to compare the results of the studies with the outcome of other test systems (other particles, other techniques). Both, the test results, and literature evaluation led to the conclusion, that SAS does not penetrate skin. Based on this outcome and local and systemic dermal toxicity review of SAS, it can be concluded that dermal application of SAS in cosmetic formulations is negligible.

Keywords: Exposure study; Nanomaterial; Particle detection; Risk assessment; Skin penetration; Synthetic amorphous Silica (SAS).