Cosmetic products contain preservatives to prevent microbial growth. The various types of preservatives present in skincare products applied on the skin induce many side effects. We tested several types of preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea (IU), the composition of gluconolactone and sodium benzoate (GSB), diazolidinyl urea (DU), and two grapefruit essential oils, one of which was industrially produced and a second which was freshly distilled from fresh grapefruit peels. This study aimed to find the relationship between preservative concentration, cell growth, collagen secretion, and cell viability. We hypothesized that these products induced a decrease in collagen secretion from human dermal fibroblasts. Our research, for the first time, addressed the overall effect of other preservatives on skin extracellular matrix (ECM) by studying their effect on metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) activity. Except for cytotoxicity and contact sensitivity tests, there are no studies of their effect on skin ECM in the available literature. These studies show potential antimicrobial activity, especially from the compounds IU and DU towards reference bacteria and the compounds methyl paraben and propyl paraben against reference fungi. The MTS test showed that fibroblasts are more sensitive to the tested group of preservatives than keratinocytes, which could be caused by the differences between the cells' structures. The grapefruit oils exhibited the most cytotoxicity to both tested cell lines compared to all considered preservatives. The most destructive influence of preservatives on collagen synthesis was observed in the case of IU and DU. In this case, the homemade grapefruit oil turned out to be the mildest one. The results from a diverse group of preservatives show that whether they are natural or synthesized compounds, they require controlled use. Appropriate dosages and evaluation of preservative efficacy should not be the only aspects considered. The complex effect of preservatives on skin processes and cytotoxicity is an important topic for modern people.
Keywords: antimicrobial activity; collagen secretion; cosmetic preservatives; cytotoxicity; human dermis; human fibroblasts (BJ); human keratinocyte (HaCaT); matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) activity.