The application of plant dyes in the textile industry has been very limited due to their limited sources, incomplete color space, and narrow color gamut, etc. Therefore, studies of the color properties and color gamut of natural dyes and the corresponding dyeing processes are essential for completing the color space of natural dyes and their application. In this study, water extract from the bark of Phellodendron amurense (P. amurense) was used as a dye. Dyeing properties, color gamut, and color evaluation of dyed cotton fabrics were studied, and optimal dyeing conditions were obtained. The results showed that the optimal dyeing process was pre-mordanting with liquor ratio at 1:50, P. amurense dye concentration at 5.2 g/L, mordant concentration (aluminum potassium sulfate) at 5 g/L, dyeing temperature at 70 °C, dyeing time of 30 min, mordanting time of 15 min, and pH 5. Through the optimization of the dyeing process, a maximum color gamut range was obtained with lightness L* value from 74.33 to 91.23, a* value from -0.89 to 2.96, b* value from 4.62 to 34.08, chroma C* value from 5.49 to 34.09, and hue angle h° value from 57.35° to 91.57°. Colors from light yellow to dark yellow were obtained, among which 12 colors were identified according to the Pantone Matching Systems. The color fastness against soap-washing, rubbing, and sunlight on the dyed cotton fabrics all reached grade 3 level or above, further expanding the applicability of natural dyes.
Keywords: Phellodendron amurense Rupr.; color evaluation; color gamut space; cotton fabric; dyeing; natural dye.