The skin aging process is governed by intrinsic and extrinsic factors causing skin wrinkles, sagging, and loosening. The 1-monoeicosapentaenoin (1-MEST) is a component isolated from Micractinium, a genus of microalgae (Chlorophyta, Trebouxiophyceae). However, the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST are not yet known. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle effects of 1-MEST in vitro and in clinical trials. The cytotoxicity of 1-MEST was investigated in vitro using the MTS assay in human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs). Expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-9 was determined by ELISA in HEKs irradiated with UVB after treatment with 1-MEST. A split-face randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was conducted to evaluate the safety and efficacy of 1-MEST. The study evaluated wrinkle parameters and visual assessment, self-efficacy and usability questionnaires, and adverse events. The study showed that the 1-MEST was not cytotoxic in HEKs, suppressed MMP-1 secretion and MMP-9 protein expression in HEKs irradiated with UVB. The wrinkle parameters and mean visual assessment score were significantly decreased in the test group after 12 weeks and differed from the control group. There were no significant differences in efficacy and usability. Adverse effects were also not observed. The 1-MEST showed anti-wrinkle properties to slow down or prevent skin aging.
Keywords: 1-monoeicosapentaenoin; Trebouxiophyceae Micractinium; anti-aging; clinical trial; matrix metalloproteinase; skin wrinkle.