Novel conformation of hyaluronic acid with improved cosmetic efficacy

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023 Apr;22(4):1312-1320. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15555. Epub 2022 Dec 27.

Abstract

Background: Hyaluronic acid presents a valuable cosmetic ingredient that occurs naturally. Its direct links to skin aging has led to its broad application. The aim of this study was to improve the cosmetic efficacy of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMWHA) without chemical modifications and evaluate such improvements through clinical and in vitro studies.

Methods: A novel formulation of HMWHA (SCAI-HA) was prepared and investigated to comparatively assess 6 clinical and 2 in vitro parameters concerning its dermatological cosmetic efficacy and biological properties. The dermatological and cellular parameters examined in this study include skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity, wrinkles, facial sagging, dermal density, cytotoxicity, and collagen synthesis.

Results: SCAI-HA exhibited the ability to improve the tested dermatological parameters (hydration, elasticity, wrinkles, and density) to magnitudes comparable to those of HMWHA. In addition, SCAI-HA showed notably improved capacities for attenuating facial sagging and TEWL and promoting cellular collagen synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts.

Conclusion: SCAI-HA presents a novel conformation of HMWHA with improved cosmetic efficacy in mitigating (i) facial sagging, (ii) TEWL, and promoting, and (iii) collagen synthesis. These findings denote the enhancement of SCAI-HA as a cosmetic ingredient with potential anti-aging properties.

Keywords: collagen synthesis; cosmetic efficacy; facial sagging; hyaluronic acid; transepidermal water loss.

MeSH terms

  • Collagen
  • Cosmetics* / pharmacology
  • Humans
  • Hyaluronic Acid / chemistry
  • Hyaluronic Acid / pharmacology
  • Skin
  • Skin Aging*

Substances

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Cosmetics
  • Collagen