Given the environmental burden of textile industry, especially of dyeing processes and the volume of synthetic dyes and surfactants, the intensive development of the greener approaches is under way. Herein, an environmentaly-friendly dyeing of polyamide (PA) and PA/Elastane (PA/EA) knits using live bacterial approach in water environment, completely eliminating usage of textile auxiliaries is described. A total of 12 pigment-producing Streptomyces strains were isolated and purified from soil and rizoshere or bark of smoke tree Cotinus coggygria samples. The antibacterial, antifungal and cytotoxic effects of crude bacterial extracts were tested. Antimicrobial effect was obtained by the majority of extracts but only two streptomycetes extracts, 11-5 and BPS51, showed moderate cytotoxicity against HaCaT human cell line. This was the reason to select 11-5 and BPS51 strains for the dyeing of the textile materials. Excellent properties of dyeing wool, silk and PA are achieved initially using live cultures, and the bioprocess is optimized on commercial PA and PA/EA knits used for stockings production. Satisfactory coloration of both knits is achieved with dynamic conditions (culture shaking at 180 rpm over 5-14 days at 30 ºC) giving the best coloration results, except in the case of the PA sample dyed with a bacterial strain 11-5. The prolongation of dyeing time leads to higher color yields independently of fabric and bacteria strain. Although the color differences between the samples before and after washing are observed, washing fastness after three washing cycles can be considered as satisfactory.
Keywords: Bioprocess; Elastane; Live bacterial dyeing; Polyamide; Streptomyces.
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