Ancient and old wheat grains are gaining interest as a genetic reservoir to develop improved Italian genotypes with peculiar features. In this light, the aim of this study was to assess the baking performance of two improved einkorn (Monlis and Norberto) and two improved emmer (Padre Pio and Giovanni Paolo) genotypes in comparison with two Italian landraces (Garfagnana and Cappelli) and Khorasan. This set was evaluated following a holistic approach considering the flour, dough, and bread properties. The results showed that the flour properties, dough rheology, pasting, and fermentation parameters, as well as the bread properties, significantly differed among the studied genotypes. Cappelli produced the bread with the best quality, i.e., the highest volume and lowest firmness. Despite having the same pedigrees, Giovanni Paolo and Padre Pio resulted in significantly different technological properties. Giovanni Paolo flour showed the highest protein content and provided a dough with a high gas production capacity, resulting in the bread having a similar firmness to Cappelli. Padre Pio flour provided bread having a similar volume to Cappelli but a high firmness similar to Khorasan and Garfagnana. The einkorn genotypes, Monlis and Norberto, showed poor fermentation properties and high gelatinization viscosity that resulted in bread with poor quality. Alternatively, they could be more suitable for making non-fermented flatbreads. Our results showed that the improved wheat showed a high versatility of features, which offers bakers a flexible material to make a genotype of bread types.
Keywords: ancient wheat; bread; dough rheology; genetic improvement; grain composition.