For the current study, Bougainvillea flowers as environment friendly sustainable source of plant-based natural dye have been selected as an alternative to toxic synthetic dyes for dyeing of cotton and silk. Natural colorant from Bougainvillea flowers (Bougainvillea glabra) was extracted using aqueous and acidic extraction media. Maximum colorant was extracted in aqueous medium, and further it was used for cotton and silk dyeing. The optimum values of the dyeing parameters including dyeing time, dye to liquor ratio and salt level as exhausting agent were found to be 30 min, 35-mL liquor ratio and 3.0 g for cotton and for silk 45 min dyeing time, 45-mL liquor ratio and 3.0 g exhausting agent in aqueous dye extract. Bio mordanting has been applied to attain a variety of color shades. The utilization of 3% of henna, 4% of turmeric for silk pre-mordanting and for post-mordanting turmeric at 3% and henna at 4% for silk gave a darker shade. For cotton bio mordanting, 2% turmeric rhizome powder, 3% henna leaves powder extract as pre-mordant and 2% turmeric, 3% henna as post-mordant has developed a variety of shade. Overall, it has been found that natural colorant from Bougainvillea flowers is the new dye source for bio-coloration of natural fabrics, and addition of bio mordants has made the process more calming and eco-friendly.
Keywords: Anthocyanin; Bio mordanting; Bougainvillea; Color strength; Cotton and silk fabrics; Henna; Turmeric.
© 2022. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer-Verlag GmbH Germany, part of Springer Nature.