Influence of moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid on facial skin lipidome among seborrhea participants

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Dec;21(12):7081-7089. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15381. Epub 2022 Sep 26.

Abstract

Background: A better understanding of skin lipidomics and its alteration under treatment administration might offer therapeutic solutions for seborrhea.

Aims: To quantitatively and qualitatively explore the lipid-modifying effect of the moisturizer containing licochalcone A, 1,2-decanediol, L-carnitine, and salicylic acid (LDCS) in seborrhea participants with and without acne vulgaris (AV).

Patients/methods: We conducted an open-label explorative study on 20 seborrhea participants (10 AV and 10 non-AV). All participants applied LDCS for 8 weeks with the addition of benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel and adapalene 0.1%/benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel in AV. Skin surface lipid (SSL) assessments were performed biweekly, using Sebumeter® and lipid-absorbent Sebutapes® to collect forehead SSL for profile analysis by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

Results: SSL amount significantly decreased since week 2 in AV (p-value = 0.0124) and week 6 in non-AV (p-value = 0.0098), respectively. Twenty-two important SSLs were annotated from GC-MS analysis, comprising 19 free fatty acids, cholesterol, squalene, and glycerol. There was a significant reduction in 5 and 13 lipid components in AV and non-AV groups, respectively.

Conclusion: LDCS, either alone or with topical acne treatment, demonstrated substantial sebusuppressive and lipid-modifying effects among seborrhea participants.

Keywords: 2-decanediol; L-carnitine; licochalcone A; lipidomics; seborrhea.

MeSH terms

  • Acne Vulgaris* / drug therapy
  • Adapalene / therapeutic use
  • Benzoyl Peroxide
  • Carnitine
  • Dermatitis, Seborrheic* / drug therapy
  • Dermatologic Agents* / therapeutic use
  • Gels
  • Humans
  • Lipidomics
  • Lipids / therapeutic use
  • Salicylic Acid / therapeutic use
  • Treatment Outcome

Substances

  • Salicylic Acid
  • Dermatologic Agents
  • licochalcone A
  • Carnitine
  • 1,2-decanediol
  • Adapalene
  • Benzoyl Peroxide
  • Lipids
  • Gels