Perspectives of topical formulations for melasma

Int J Dermatol. 2023 Feb;62(2):260-268. doi: 10.1111/ijd.16421. Epub 2022 Sep 9.

Abstract

Melasma is acquired hyperpigmentation that mainly affects the face, can cause negative changes in self-esteem, and mostly affects women. Treatment is difficult, and different drugs can be used in mono or combination therapy. In this article, we present a brief overview of melasma, how to evaluate it, and a synthesis of the most commonly used topical therapies and their indications, including sunscreens, pharmacological agents, and plant extracts. Hydroquinone (4%) in monotherapy or combined with corticosteroids (dexamethasone and fluocinolone acetonide) and retinoids (tretinoin); arbutin (1%); methimazole (5%); kojic (2%), azelaic (20%), and tranexamic (5%) acids are the pharmacological agents that stand out. Correct application of these substances determines a variable improvement in melasma but often causes adverse reactions such as erythema, itching, and burning at the application site. Vitamin C can contribute to the reduction of melasma and have little or no adverse effects while sunscreens are normally used as coadjuvant therapies. In conclusion, we have compiled specific topical therapies for treating melasma and discussed those that are the most used currently. We consider it important that prescribers and researchers evaluate the best cost-benefit ratio of topical therapeutic options and develop new formulations, enabling efficacy in the treatment with safety and comfort during application, through the reduction of adverse effects.

MeSH terms

  • Female
  • Fluocinolone Acetonide / adverse effects
  • Humans
  • Hydroquinones / therapeutic use
  • Melanosis* / etiology
  • Retinoids / therapeutic use
  • Sunscreening Agents* / therapeutic use
  • Treatment Outcome
  • Tretinoin / adverse effects

Substances

  • Sunscreening Agents
  • Tretinoin
  • Retinoids
  • Fluocinolone Acetonide
  • Hydroquinones