Possibilities of Using Medicinal Plant Extracts and Salt-Containing Raw Materials from the Aral Region for Cosmetic Purposes

Izabela Nowak; Akmaral Issayeva; Marta Dąbrowska; Agata Wawrzyńczak; Henryk Jeleń; Bogusława Łęska; Azhar Abubakirova; Assel Tleukeyeva

doi:10.3390/molecules27165122

Possibilities of Using Medicinal Plant Extracts and Salt-Containing Raw Materials from the Aral Region for Cosmetic Purposes

Molecules. 2022 Aug 11;27(16):5122. doi: 10.3390/molecules27165122.

Authors

Izabela Nowak¹, Akmaral Issayeva², Marta Dąbrowska¹, Agata Wawrzyńczak¹, Henryk Jeleń³, Bogusława Łęska¹, Azhar Abubakirova⁴, Assel Tleukeyeva⁴

Affiliations

¹ Faculty of Chemistry, Adam Mickiewicz University, Uniwersytetu Poznańskiego 8, 61-614 Poznań, Poland.
² Ecology and Biology Research Institute, Shymkent University, Shymkent 160000, Kazakhstan.
³ Faculty of Food Science and Nutrition, Poznań University of Life Sciences, Wojska Polskiego 31, 60-624 Poznań, Poland.
⁴ M. Auezov South Kazakhstan University, Shymkent 160000, Kazakhstan.

Abstract

The aim of this work was to study the possibility of using medicinal plants in combination with salt-containing raw materials from the Aral Sea region for cosmetic purposes. The chemical and mineralogical compositions of salts occurring in this region were studied for pharmacological and cosmetic purposes. The salt-containing raw materials were studied by X-ray diffraction (XRD), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The microflora of saline-containing raw materials and flora of the Zhaksy-Klych lake were studied. Fifty-six plant species were identified, of which 25% belong to the Asteraceae family, 32% were Poaceae, 22% were Amaranthaceae, and 21% were Tamaricaceae. Using the solid-phase microextraction (SPME) method and comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography−mass spectrometry, the composition of volatile compounds in such plant species as Artemisia alba L., Achilleamillifolium L., Eleagus commutate Bernh. Ex Rydb., Psoraleadrupacea Bunge, Artemisia cipa O. Vegd., Thymus vulgaris L., Morus alba L., Salvia pratensis L., Glycyrhizaglabra L., Tanacetum vulgare L., Polygonumaviculare L., Alhagipseudoalhagi Gagnebin and Peganumharmala L., chosen on the basis of their herbal components for future cosmetic products, was determined. In total, 187 different volatile compounds were found in the endemic plant species Glycyrrhizaglabra L., of which the following were dominant: 1,7-octadiene-3-, 2,6-dimethyl- with a peak area of 4.71%; caryophyllenes; bicyclo[7.2.0]4,11,11-trimethyl-8-methylene-, [1R-(1R*,4E,9S*)]—3.70%; bicyclo[2.2.1] heptane-2-1,7,7-trimethyl-,(1S)—3.46%; cyclohexanone, 5-methyl-2-(1-methylethyledene)-; 2-isopropyledene-5—2.97%; menthol; cyclohexanol, 5-methyl-2-(1-methylethyl)-; p-menthane-3-ol; menthol alcohol; and 2-isopropyl-5—2.08%. The remaining compounds were detected in amounts of less than 2.0%. Tests of seven cosmetic compositions developed on the basis of plant extracts and salt-containing raw materials revealed that three samples had a moisturizing effect. Launching the production of cosmetic products in the Aral region will not only reduce social tensions but also significantly improve the environmental situation in the region.

Keywords: Aral region; Zhaksy-Klych lake; biochemical composition; bottom saline silt; cosmetic products; medicinal plants.

MeSH terms

Artemisia*
Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry / methods
Menthol
Plant Extracts / chemistry
Plants, Medicinal* / chemistry

Substances

Plant Extracts
Menthol

Grants and funding

The research was carried out within the framework of the grant of the Ministry of Education and Science of the Republic of Kazakhstan, AR05131728: “Development of production technology and obtaining prototypes of new cosmetic products based on pharmacological studies of domestic salt-containing and vegetable raw materials”.