Current postbiotics in the cosmetic market-an update and development opportunities

Abstract

Postbiotics are a new class of health-promoting molecules that derive from probiotics. These new cosmetic and dermatological ingredients are defined as a 'preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host'. This review focuses on what is presently known of these compounds, the benefits of using them, the main postbiotics products available in the market and players, the production key trends and available production methods. The main advantages identified for the use of postbiotics are related to their higher specificity of action on resident microbiota as of interaction with cells of the host compared to probiotics. Postbiotics can be produced/obtained especially through fermentative processes, but most of companies industrial processes are patented. Most of these compounds are usually derived from lactic acid bacteria, Lactobacillus genera and/or yeasts, especially Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Postbiotics go from metabolites like teichoic acids to polysaccharides among others and exhibit important biological properties such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative and immunomodulatory-the reason why their use in cosmetic formulations must be considered. Besides that, when compared to probiotics, postbiotics have longer shelf life and greater safety and do not require viability in the topical formulation which turns them into an innovative approach within the cosmetic ingredients market. The main players are companies that operate in several areas, such as the chemical industry, food innovation, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and the critical trends for production of these compounds include energy efficiency, emission-free mobility, conservation of finite resources and renewable raw material utilization. KEY POINTS: • Postbiotics are mainly derived from lactic acid bacteria and S. cerevisiae. • Postbiotics exhibit several biological properties. • Postbiotics present several advantages over probiotics.

Keywords: Cosmetic(s); Fermentation; Lactobacillus; Postbiotic(s); Probiotic(s); Saccharomyces.