The current mindset in the cosmetics market about sustainable ingredients had increased the search for new sources of natural active ingredients. Cyanobacteria are a great source of functional ingredients for cosmetics, as a producer of pigments with described bioactive potential (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins). This work aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of marine cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp. pigment-targeted extracts (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins), evaluating their in vitro safety through cytotoxicity assays, cosmetic-related enzyme inhibition, ingredient stability, and putative product (serum formulation). Results showed no cytotoxicity from the extracts in skin-related cell lines. Carotenoid extract showed anti-hyaluronidase capacity (IC50 = 108.74 ± 5.74 mg mL-1) and phycobiliprotein extract showed anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase capacity (IC50 = 67.25 ± 1.18 and 582.82 ± 56.99 mg mL-1, respectively). Regarding ingredient and serum stability, both ingredients showed higher stability at low-temperature conditions, and it was possible to maintain the pigment content and bioactive capacity stable during the tested period, although in higher temperatures the product was degraded in a week. As a major conclusion, both extracts can be potential natural and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic uses, with relatively simple formulation and storage, and can be promising natural anti-aging ingredients due to their bioactive capacity.
Keywords: accelerated stability; antioxidant; carotenoids; hyaluronidase; phycobiliproteins; serum formulation.