Agricultural practices generate huge amounts of by-products, often simply discarded as waste that must be processed at some cost. The natural by-products revalorisation as raw material to produce high-added value ingredients for various industrial sectors may pave the way towards more sustainable industrial practices, via an optimised utilisation of natural resources. Integrating the circular economy precepts to production systems is considered to be a more and more promising management solution to significantly reduce the environmental impact of economic activities. This article discusses the valorisation of Rosa centifolia stem to produce a natural extract with cosmetic anti-aging potential. To do so, the cosmetic potential of 30 extracts obtained by maceration of agricultural by-products in a hydroalcoholic solvent was evaluated: their activities, as well as their inhibitory activities of specific enzymes were assessed in vitro to identify those that could be used effectively as anti-ageing actives while meeting the consumer's expectations in terms of sustainability, naturality, transparency and traceability.[1] A hydroalcoholic extract of R. centifolia stem revealed itself particularly promising due to its valuable anti-hyaluronidase and antioxidant activities, and its interesting anti-elastase and anti-inflammatory potential. The bio-guided fractionation of this extract allows the characterisation of three major compounds, e. g., isoquercitrin, quercitrin and euscaphic acid, never identified in R. centifolia previously.
Keywords: Rosa centifolia L. stem; anti-aging potential; bioguided fractionation; chemical composition; up-cycling.
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