In the light of clean beauty and sustainability requirements emerging in the personal care market, the urgent need for the replacement of silicones in hair conditioners-with comparable performance and customer experience-has been highlighted in the industry. In this context, the goal of the present study was to investigate the physical effects of different silicone-free conditioner formulations on Mongolian hair after damage due to bleaching and compare the results to property changes induced by a classical silicone-containing formulation. To that end, the morphology, structure, and composition of strands and individual fibers of this hair type were characterized before and after bleaching by means of optical microscopy, atomic force microscopy (AFM), and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). It is shown that oxidative bleaching causes significant damage to the native hair surface, leading to local depletion or even large-area removal of the outer hydrophobic lipid layer. This results in enhanced wettability of the bleached hair by water (as confirmed by contact angle measurements) and is accompanied by an undesired loss of hair gloss and softness. Upon treatment with suitable cosmetic emulsions, the natural hydrophobicity of intact Mongolian hair can be partially or fully restored, with silicone-free formulations having effects similar to those of established silicone-containing products. The successive influence of bleaching and conditioning was further monitored using inverse gas chromatography (iGC), a technique that probes changes in surface energetics and polarity over an ensemble of an entire hair strand through interactions with specific molecules at the solid/gas interface. The resulting data mirror the macroscopic behavior of the bleached/conditioned hair and provide a quantitative scale for measuring damage and repair effects. Most notably, the effect of bleaching and subsequent conditioning on the haptic perception of hair strands could also be quantified with the aid of a biomimetic measurement system, which identifies increased friction (both tactile and sliding) as the major cause for the strawy feel of bleached hair and indicates successful relubrication after treatment with suitable conditioner formulations. Finally, the different physical properties determined for native, bleached, and reconditioned Mongolian hair are found to be reflected in application-oriented tests, namely in vitro measurements of wet and dry combing work. Overall, the data collected in this work shed novel light on the surface properties of Mongolian hair and highlight that effective hair conditioning after damage can be achieved without silicones in advanced cosmetic emulsions based on octyldodecyl myristate and glyceryl oleate.
© 2022 The Authors. Published by American Chemical Society.