Oily skin from overactive sebaceous glands affects self-confidence and personality. There is report of an association between steroid 5-alpha reductase gene (SRD5A) expression and facial sebum production. There is no study of the effect of Asparagus racemosus Willd. root extract on the regulation of SRD5A mRNA expression and anti-sebum efficacy. This study extracted A. racemosus using the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid technique with ethanol and investigated its biological compounds and activities. The A. racemosus root extract had a high content of polyphenolic compounds, including quercetin, naringenin, and p-coumaric acid, and DPPH scavenging activity comparable to that of the standard L-ascorbic acid. A. racemosus root extract showed not only a significant reduction in SRD5A1 and SRD5A2 mRNA expression by about 45.45% and 90.86%, respectively, but also a reduction in the in vivo anti-sebum efficacy in male volunteers, with significantly superior percentage changes in facial sebum production and a reduction in the percentages of pore area after 15 and 30 days of treatment. It can be concluded that A. racemosus root extract with a high content of polyphenol compounds, great antioxidant effects, promising downregulation of SRD5A1 and SRD5A2, and predominant facial sebum reduction and pore-minimizing efficacy could be a candidate for an anti-sebum and pore-minimizing active ingredient to serve in functional cosmetic applications.
Keywords: 5-alpha reductase enzymes; Asparagus racemosus; SRD5A; anti-sebum efficacy; facial sebum production; facial-pore-minimizing efficacy; human volunteer; oily skin; polyphenols; supercritical carbon dioxide fluid extraction.