Depth profiling of epidermal hydration inducing improvement of skin roughness and elasticity: in vivo study by confocal Raman spectroscopy

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Oct;21(10):4810-4817. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14795. Epub 2022 Feb 7.

Abstract

Introduction: Skin hydration in the stratum corneum plays an important role in skin condition, and skin efficacy properties are influenced by its hydration level. However, few studies have identified the correlation between changes in skin hydration content and skin characteristics by skin depth level.

Aims: This study aims to determine how changes in skin hydration at specific depth levels affect skin condition by long-term tracking changes in hydration of stratum corneum and viable epidermis after usage of moisturizer.

Methods: Ten volunteers were recruited and subjected to in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to perform water content profiling at skin depths of up to 52 μm. Mechanical properties of skin were measured using Cutometer and Antera 3D. Skin-elasticity and roughness values observed before and after 15 days of moisturizing emulsion use were compared to demonstrate the correlation between observed changes in skin efficacy parameters and skin water content at specific depths.

Results: Significant increase in relative water content at specific depths was observed in this study. Among mechanical properties of skin, only R4, R6, and R8 parameters demonstrated significant changes. Additionally, rates of change in values of the R6 and R8 parameters revealed a high correlation with water content changes at viable epidermis depths below the stratum corneum. On the other hand, skin roughness parameter showed a correlation with water content changes at the outermost layer of stratum corneum.

Conclusion: Results of this study indicate that skin elasticity is influenced by its hydration level at viable epidermis depths and skin roughness at stratum corneum each. This suggests that monitoring depth profiles of water content using in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy provides a breakthrough in tracking the skin efficacy effect of topically applied substances.

Keywords: Raman spectroscopy; depth profile; elasticity; epidermal hydration; non-invasive; skin texture; viable epidermis.

MeSH terms

  • Elasticity
  • Epidermis*
  • Humans
  • Skin
  • Spectrum Analysis, Raman* / methods
  • Water / analysis

Substances

  • Water