Background: Collagen forms a dermal matrix in the skin. Biosynthesis and decomposition of collagen are the major processes in skin aging. Propolis is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which are known to be effective in preventing skin aging, including the enhancement of fibroblast proliferation, activation, and growth capacity.
Objectives: The aim of this study was to develop a poorly soluble propolis extract as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for anti-aging efficacy.
Methods & results: Polymeric nanoparticles containing propolis extract, polyethylene glycol 400, and poloxamer 407 were prepared via a temperature-induced phase transition method. The particle size of the polymeric nanoparticles was approximately 20.75 nm. The results of an in vitro procollagen type I carboxy-terminal peptide assay and a matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibition assay showed that the polymeric nanoparticles increased collagen production by 19.81%-24.59% compared to blank (p < 0.05), and significantly reduced intracellular collagenase activity by 7.46%-31.52% compared to blank (p < 0.05). In a clinical trial, polymeric nanoparticles in a cosmetic formulation were applied around the eyes of 24 female subjects for 8 weeks. Five skin parameters were significantly improved after the application of the test ampoule. Visual evaluation using the Global Photo Damage Score showed a significant reduction in wrinkles after the application of the test ampoules (p < 0.001).
Conclusions: This study outlines the development of stable polymeric nanoparticles containing poorly soluble propolis in a cosmetic formulation, and its efficacy in wrinkle improvement. The developed polymeric nanoparticles were effective for alleviating wrinkles and can be used for pharmaceutical applications that utilize propolis as antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antimycotic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiulcer, anticancer, and immunomodulatory agents.
Keywords: anti-aging; anti-wrinkle; polymeric nanoparticles; poorly soluble agent; propolis.
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