DeoxyArbutin (dA) is a tyrosinase inhibitor that has effective skin-lightening activity and has no obvious cytotoxicity toward melanocytes. With the aim of directly evaluating the effects of microemulsions containing dA on cells, we developed oil-in-water (O/W) microemulsions with relatively lower cytotoxicities by using polysorbate-series surfactants. Measurement of the transparent properties and particle size analysis at different storage time periods revealed that the developed microemulsions were stable. Moreover, the developed microemulsions had direct effects on B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. The anti-melanogenesis activities of dA-containing microemulsions were evidently better than that of the free dA group. The results demonstrated that the developed microemulsion encapsulating dA may allow the use of deoxyArbutin instead of hydroquinone to treat dermal hyperpigmentation disorders in the future.
Keywords: cell-based assay; cosmetics; deoxyArbutin; microemulsion; polysorbate; surfactants.