Objective: The objective of this work was to develop a peptide production process of the exact molecular weight propitious to topical application for cosmetics and to investigate the effects of enzymolysis-derived peptide on UVB-induced photoaging rat skin.
Methods: The chum salmon fish skins were hydrolyzed by alkaline protease and neutral protease and spray-dried at different conditions, and three kinds of molecular weight peptide (MFSOP) were obtained. A total of 66 ICR rats (female, 20 ± 1 g) were randomly divided into eleven groups, including the normal, model, and experimental groups. The three kinds of MFSOP were dissolved at different dosages (5‰, 2.5%, and 5%) and then applied on the ICR hairless back skins prior to exposing UVB irradiation of 3000mJ/cm2 to them 4 h later. After 8 weeks, the rats were killed and the hair-shaved skins were tested for skin moisture, hyaluronic acid, hydroxyproline, antioxidant activity, and RNA expression.
Results: Three kinds of MFSOP were obtained, with the average molecular weights of 495.16, 1194.00, and 2032.46 Dalton, respectively. The MFSOPs, especially the MFSOP of average molecular weight of 1194.00 Dalton, played an important role in the recovery of the UVB-injured skin tissue in lock in moisture, in antioxidant activity and in promotion in collagen and elastin protein to some extent.
Conclusion: MFSOPs, especially MFSOP of average molecular weight of 1194.00 Dalton, derived from enzymolysis are potential materials to apply in cosmetics for the UVB9-induced anti-photoaging activity (lock in moisture, antioxidant activity, and promotion in collagen and elastin protein).
Keywords: Cosmetics; UVB-induced photoaging; chum salmon fish; hydrolyzed peptide.
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