One of the side effects of oral antiaging retinoids is increased hair shedding. Retinoids promote the expression of TGF-β2 from fibroblasts, which stimulate collagen expression but silences keratinocytes. Since keratinocytes normally influence differentiation of dermal papilla cells at the base of the hair follicle, retinoids feasibly inhibit hair growth via the increased expression of TGF-β2, which inhibits Wnt/β-catenin signaling. Fortunately, the plant kingdom provides an array of alternatives as dual-acting nutricosmetics and topicals that work independently of TGF-β2 to confer dermal antiaging and hair health effects. These alternatives include "plant hormones" such as cytokinins and phytoestrogens. Many cytokinins are agonists of the G-coupled adenosine receptors. Partial agonism of adenosine receptors promotes collagen synthesis independently of TGF-β2 signaling. Adenosine expression is potentially also the mechanism of minoxidil in promotion of scalp hair growth. Because of crosstalk between adenosine and cannabinoid receptors it makes sense to try combinations of specific CB2 agonists and cytokinins (or phytoestrogens). However, dual-acting cosmetics including peptides with high numbers of positively charged amino acids, such as lysine or arginine, offer real potential as they can be processed from multiple botanical candidates, including almond, fenugreek, pea sprouts, soy, and seaweeds. The current review summarizes much of what is known about retinoid alternatives in the plant kingdom and identifies potentially fruitful new areas of research.
Keywords: alopecia; antiaging; collagen; dermis; fibroblast; hair; keratinocyte; peptides.
© 2021 The Authors. FASEB BioAdvances published by the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology.