The relative importance of key performance factors is poorly studied in high-level climbers. This study aimed to (1) determine the role of forearm muscle strength and endurance in high-level rock climbing, (2) and provide suitable dynamometric test parameters for muscle endurance assessment in high-level climbers. Six higher elite (redpoint Fr.9a) and eight elite/advanced (redpoint Fr.8a+) climbers performed one finger flexor maximal strength test and three finger endurance tests: a 30 s all-out test and a continuous and intermittent test at 60% of maximal voluntary contraction. Higher elite climbers had higher (p < 0.05) maximal strength, all-out test average force and continuous test force-time integral (all relative to body mass) than the elite/advanced climbers. These parameters correlated significantly (p < 0.05) with climbing performance, which has not been observed so far for continuous test scores. Unlike in previous research, intermittent test force-time integral neither distinguished climbing ability groups nor correlated significantly with climbing performance. Nevertheless, regression models comprising of intermittent and maximal strength test scores more strongly determined climbing performance than models including continuous or all-out test scores. Intermittent muscle endurance is among the performance factors in difficult rock climbing but appears to be less important than maintaining high forces during sustained muscle contractions.
Keywords: Strength; continuous and intermittent tests; muscle endurance; performance evaluation; redpoint and on-sight climbing; sport-specific dynamometer.