Clove essential oil (CEO) is known for having excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, but the poor stability of its components to light and temperature compromise this activity. The aim of this study is to evaluate the textural, antioxidant, antimicrobial and microstructural properties of matrixes produced with representative natural waxes and CEO. Thus, waxy emulsifiers, such as beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and ozokerite wax, were employed to create such matrixes. The thermal, microstructural, textural, wetting, antioxidant, antimicrobial and infrared characteristics of the matrixes were then studied. The diverse chemical composition (long-chain wax esters in carnauba wax and short-chain fatty acids and hydrocarbons in beeswax and ozokerite wax, respectively) explained the differences in wetting, texture, melting, and crystallization characteristics. Crystal forms of these matrix systems varied from grainy, oval, to needle-like shape, but keeping an orthorhombic allomorph. The alignment and reorganization of beeswax and ozokerite wax into needle-like crystals increased the matrix strength and adhesion force compared to those of carnauba and candelilla matrixes, which showed weak strength and grainy morphology. The former two waxes and their matrixes also showed the largest plasticity. These lipidic matrixes show potential use for topical applications having acceptable antioxidant and textural properties.
Keywords: antioxidant and antimicrobial properties; clove essential oil; cosmetic lipidic matrixes; mechanical and wetting properties.