Plant cell culture extract of Cirsium eriophorum with skin pore refiner activity by modulating sebum production and inflammatory response

Phytother Res. 2021 Jan;35(1):530-540. doi: 10.1002/ptr.6832. Epub 2020 Aug 20.

Abstract

Facial pore enlargement is considered a significant esthetic and health concern in skincare cosmetics. The pores fulfill the critical function of keeping the skin surface hydrated and protected against microbial infections. The hyperseborrhea, the stress factors, and the hormonal triggers can cause pore size enlargement, causing higher susceptibility of the skin to microbe aggressions and inflammatory reactions. Thus, reducing excessive sebum production and keeping functional pores are two of the most requested activities in skincare cosmetics. A Cirsium eriophorum cell culture extract was investigated for its role in sebum regulation, stratum corneum desquamation, and anti-inflammation. The extract was able to regulate essential markers associated with sebum secretion and pore enlargements, such as the enzyme 5α-reductase, which plays a central role in sebum production, and the trypsin-like serine protease Kallikrein 5, which promotes skin exfoliation and antimicrobial response. Moreover, the extract showed a sebum-normalizing and pore refining activity in individuals having seborrheic or acne-prone skins, suggesting a role of the C. eriophorum extract in rebalancing altered skin conditions responsible for pore enlargement.

Keywords: C. eriophorum cell cultures; acne-prone; dermo-cosmetic; mattifying effect; oily skin; sebum-normalizing.

MeSH terms

  • Acne Vulgaris
  • Adult
  • Anti-Inflammatory Agents / pharmacology*
  • Cell Culture Techniques
  • Cirsium / chemistry*
  • Cosmetics
  • Face
  • Female
  • Fibroblasts / drug effects
  • HaCaT Cells
  • Humans
  • Inflammation
  • Male
  • Plant Extracts / pharmacology*
  • Sebum / metabolism*
  • Skin / drug effects*
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin Physiological Phenomena
  • Young Adult

Substances

  • Anti-Inflammatory Agents
  • Cosmetics
  • Plant Extracts