A Clinical Anti-Ageing Comparative Study of 0.3 and 0.5% Retinol Serums: A Clinically Controlled Trial

Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2020;33(2):102-116. doi: 10.1159/000508168. Epub 2020 May 19.

Abstract

Background: Retinol influences the process of keratinization of the epidermis, which improves stratum corneum structure and reduces transepidermal water loss. It also significantly enhances mature skin by brightening hyperpigmentation and reducing the signs of photoageing. Cosmeceuticals are intended to both provide aesthetic effects for the skin and allow dermatological treatment. The aim of the study was to assess the rejuvenating effect of retinol serum on facial skin at concentrations of 0.3 and 0.5%, as well as any improvements in skin brightening and elasticity.

Materials and methods: Thirty-seven volunteers were included in the study, after confirming tolerance. The novel formula was applied once daily to the face for a period of 12 weeks: one retinol concentration on the left side and the other on the right. The initial study with liquid crystal formula (study vehicle) was carried out for 8 weeks on 28 volunteers. Treatment efficiency was evaluated at baseline, and 56 and 84 days following treatment using the multi probe adapter and Fotomedicus imaging system. PRIMOS was used to measure skin surface roughness. The visual analogue scale method enabled the results to be determined by 3 independent specialists.

Results: Skin hyperpigmentation, unevenness, and wrinkles gradually decreased over the course of treatment, both on the left and right parts of the face. Adverse events were predominantly mild or moderate skin irritation. More frequent and more intense symptoms were observed on the left side (0.5%).

Conclusion: Retinol in liquid crystal formulation is safe and provides significant clinical benefits associated with unification of skin colour, overall skin tone, skin elasticity, and moisture. Regular use of retinol typically results in brightening of the skin and reduced signs of ageing. The objective findings confirmed the effectiveness of the procedures.

Keywords: Cosmeceutical; Novel liquid crystal formula; Retinol; Skin therapy.

Publication types

  • Comparative Study
  • Randomized Controlled Trial

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Cutaneous
  • Adult
  • Elasticity / drug effects*
  • Face / physiopathology*
  • Female
  • Healthy Volunteers
  • Humans
  • Hyperpigmentation / drug therapy*
  • Hyperpigmentation / physiopathology
  • Middle Aged
  • Skin / drug effects*
  • Skin / physiopathology
  • Skin Aging*
  • Skin Pigmentation / drug effects*
  • Treatment Outcome
  • Vitamin A / administration & dosage*
  • Vitamins / administration & dosage

Substances

  • Vitamins
  • Vitamin A