Preparation and evaluation of a free surfactant herbal shampoo with Acanthophyllum Squarrosum Saponins

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jan;20(1):181-187. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13483. Epub 2020 Jun 22.

Abstract

Background: Shampoos remove fat and pus from the skin and hair. The most critical part of these products is their cleansing properties; therefore, the amount of shampoo cleanser plays an essential role in consumer acceptance.

Aim: The production of herbal shampoos from root saponins in Hawthorn can lead to the removal of these substances from shampoos. Squarrosum is one of the 23 Acanthophyllum species that is native to Iran. The root of this plant has been used traditionally as a consumption detergent due to the presence of saponins.

Method: To make the shampoo, saponins were extracted through several steps by a solvent after Acanthophyllum squarrosum scientific specimens had been prepared and identified The shampoo's fatigue strength was tested using the Ross-Miles method, and its cleansing power was assessed using Thompson's test.

Results: The optimum formula with 15% total saponins content was evaluated.

Conclusion: This liquid shampoo has an excellent cleansing effect, is suitable for regular hair; has pseudoplastic rheology; and has acceptable pH, surface tension, and organoleptic stability characteristics.

Keywords: Acanthophyllum squarrosum; cosmetic products; formulation; hair treatment; herbal shampoo.

MeSH terms

  • Hair
  • Hair Preparations*
  • Humans
  • Iran
  • Saponins*
  • Surface-Active Agents

Substances

  • Hair Preparations
  • Saponins
  • Surface-Active Agents