The skin is exposed to the solar ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, which leads to the formation of several types of skin damage responsible for cancer initiation and aging. Malus sp. is a genus of apples, which are a good source of polyphenolic compounds. Malus sp. and more precisely one of its components, rutin, have preventive effects on many diseases caused by reactive oxygen species. In addition, previous studies have suggested the topical usage of the extract as a cosmetic product to prevent skin damage caused by oxidative stress. In this study, we evaluated the efficacy of two topical formulations containing 1.25% of Malus sp. extract and the equivalent amount of rutin (0.75%). The photochemopreventive effect was assessed on two three-dimensional (3D) skin models, that is, ex vivo skin explants and 3D tissue-engineered skin to compare the models. Both formulations protected against the UVB-induced increase in sunburn cell formation, as well as caspase-3 activation and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation in both skin models. Furthermore, the formulations inhibited the lipid peroxidation and the metalloproteinase formation induced by UVB radiation. The tissue-engineered skins and the skin explants provided effective tools to assess the UVB-induced damages. These results support use of the Malus sp. extract and rutin as skin photochemopreventive agents for topical application.
Keywords: apoptotic cells; caspase-3; cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimers; lipid peroxidation; metalloproteinases; photoprotection.