Thistle oil (INCI: Silybum marianum seed oil) is known as an anti-oxidant, moisturizing and skin regenerating cosmetic raw material. Nanoemulsions are a new form of cosmetic product showing very good user properties (ease of spreading over the skin with no greasy feeling). Moreover, due to their structure, they can also transport both hydrophilic and hydrophobic active substances to the skin. The aim of this work was the preparation and characterization of nanoemulsions, based on thistle oil. The non-ionic surfactants polysorbate 80 (PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate), decyl glucoside, and a polyglyceryl-4 ester blend were applied to stabilize the nanosystems. All formulations were obtained by a high energy method, using an ultrasonic device (Labsonic U, an ultrasound homogenizer). Variations in the emulsification parameters were tested, including surfactants concentration, pre-emulsification time, ultrasound power and sonication time. On the basis of statistical analysis (experimental design, cluster analysis, classification and regression trees) the best emulsification process parameters were determined. In order to verify the results of statistical analysis, once more an experimental study was conducted. The results obtained confirmed that statistical analysis can be a useful method in determining the conditions for obtaining stable nanoemulsions with desired properties. Formulations obtained with the use of Silybum marianum seed oil were characterized by long-term stability, a low polydispersity index, low viscosity and an average droplet size less than 200 nm.
Keywords: Experimental design; Nanoemulsions; Statistical analysis; Thistle oil; Ultrasounds.