Biotechnological production of arbutins (α- and β-arbutins), skin-lightening agents, and their derivatives

Appl Microbiol Biotechnol. 2012 Sep;95(6):1417-25. doi: 10.1007/s00253-012-4297-4. Epub 2012 Jul 29.

Abstract

Arbutins (α- and β-arbutins) are glycosylated hydroquinones that are commercially used in the cosmetic industry. These compounds have an inhibitory function against tyrosinase, a critical enzyme for generating pigments, which leads to the prevention of melanin formation, resulting in a whitening effect on the skin. Although β-arbutin is found in various plants including bearberry, wheat, and pear, α-arbutin and other arbutin derivatives are synthesized by chemical and enzymatic methods. This article presents a mini-review of recent studies on the production of α-arbutin and other α- and β-arbutin derivatives via enzymatic bioconversion methods. In addition, the structures of α- and β-arbutin derivatives and their biological activities are discussed. The catalytic characteristics of various enzymes used in the biosynthesis of arbutin derivatives are also reviewed.

Publication types

  • Evaluation Study
  • Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't
  • Review

MeSH terms

  • Animals
  • Arbutin / chemistry*
  • Arbutin / pharmacology
  • Biotechnology / methods*
  • Humans
  • Melanins / metabolism
  • Skin / drug effects
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin Lightening Preparations / chemistry*
  • Skin Lightening Preparations / pharmacology
  • Skin Pigmentation / drug effects*

Substances

  • Melanins
  • Skin Lightening Preparations
  • Arbutin