Surface distribution and depths profiling of particulate organic UV absorbers by Raman imaging and tape stripping

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Dec;33(6):527-34. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00666.x. Epub 2011 Jun 22.

Abstract

Tape stripping in conjunction with scanning Raman microscopy was used for assessing the lateral and vertical distribution of an organic particulate UV filter, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT), in a sunscreen formulation. On the volar forearms of three volunteers, 1 mg cm(-2) formulation containing 10% MBBT was applied, and the average amount of MBBT was measured by Raman scanning microscopy in 15 consecutive tape strippings. The recovery of MBBT was 91.1% with 30.2% localizing on the skin surface (first strip), 42.5% in the upper stratum corneum (strips 2-5) and from 3.6 down to 0.8% in each of the 10 consecutive layers. The concentration of surface deposits of MBBT differed by a factor of 300 between folds, furrows and pores on the one hand and the interjacent ridges on the other hand. Seventy-five per cent of the applied particles occupied a fifth of the evaluated area - where concentrating in folds and furrows - as was confirmed by 3-D reconstruction. On interjacent ridges, 8.6% of MBBT distributed as very thin films preferentially. MBBT localized at sites not connected with the surface, such as in truncated pores or as potentially penetrated material amounted to 0.06% or to a twentieth of the 1.4% found in the lowest skin strippings. Scanning Raman microscopy in combination with tape stripping documented the lateral and vertical distribution quantitatively and at cellular (12.5 μm) lateral resolution. Our results confirmed an earlier report on the vertical distribution of organic particles applied to skin and was in line with similar reports on TiO(2) distribution.

MeSH terms

  • Adult
  • Female
  • Humans
  • Imaging, Three-Dimensional
  • Male
  • Skin / chemistry
  • Skin / drug effects*
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin / radiation effects*
  • Skin Absorption / drug effects
  • Spectrum Analysis, Raman
  • Sunscreening Agents / administration & dosage*
  • Tissue Culture Techniques
  • Triazoles / administration & dosage*
  • Young Adult

Substances

  • 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl))-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol
  • Sunscreening Agents
  • Triazoles