An investigation into the influence of UV irradiation on keratin hydrolysates was carried out using UV-Vis spectroscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and fluorescence spectroscopy. It was found that the absorption of keratin hydrolysates in solution increased during irradiation of the sample, most notably between 250-280 and 320-410 nm. The increase in absorbance in the region 320-410 was because of the new photoproducts formed during UV irradiation of keratin hydrolysates. The fluorescence of keratin hydrolysates was observed at 328 nm after excitation at 270 nm. UV irradiation caused fluorescence fading at 328 nm, and after 60 min of irradiation, a new broad weak band of fluorescence, attributable to new photoproducts, emerged in the UV wavelength region with emission maximum between 400 and 500 nm. FTIR spectroscopy results showed degradation of keratin under UV irradiation. A slight increase in oxidized sulphur species was also observed. The results obtained suggest that UV irradiation can be used as modifying agent for preparation of keratin hydrolysates for cosmetic applications.
© 2011 The Authors. ICS © 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.