Deposition of 18-MEA onto alkaline-color-treated weathered hair to form a persistent hydrophobicity

J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Jan-Feb;60(1):31-44.

Abstract

A technology for the deposition of a persistent hydrophobicity to alkaline-color-treated weathered hair surfaces using 18-MEA (18-methyleicosanoic acid) is presented. Two approaches were examined in order to make 18-MEA bind tightly to the alkaline-color-treated weathered hair surface. One was to apply 18-MEA as an acid form and the other was to apply 18-MEA as a salt or complex. It was found that the combination of 18-MEA with specific cationic surfactants [stearoxypropyldimethylamine (SPDA) and docosyldimethylamine (DSDA)] makes the alkaline-color-treated weathered hair surface hydrophobic and that its hydrophobicity is maintained even after shampooing. Characterization of adsorbed layers of 18-MEA/SPDA on a mica surface, as a possible hydrophilic surface model, was performed using atomic force microscopy (AFM) and angle-resolved X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (AR-XPS). The results revealed that 18-MEA/SPDA formed a layer with high wear resistance, with an alkyl chain, the hydrophobic moiety, oriented at an angle of around 25 degrees to the air interface.

MeSH terms

  • Adult
  • Alkalies / administration & dosage*
  • Eicosanoic Acids / administration & dosage*
  • Female
  • Hair / chemistry*
  • Hair Preparations*
  • Humans
  • Microscopy, Atomic Force
  • Surface Properties

Substances

  • Alkalies
  • Eicosanoic Acids
  • Hair Preparations
  • 18-methyleicosanoic acid