Salvia somalensis essential oil as a potential cosmetic ingredient: solvent-free microwave extraction, hydrodistillation, GC-MS analysis, odour evaluation and in vitro cytotoxicity assays

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Feb;31(1):55-61. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00480.x.

Abstract

Salvia somalensis Vatke, a wild sage native of Somalia, has been studied with the aim of assessing the potential cosmetic application of its essential oil, recovered from fresh aerial parts by solvent-free microwave extraction - SFME. To evaluate the efficiency and reliability of this eco-friendly procedure, the recovery of the essential oil was also processed by conventional hydrodistillation (HD) and the results compared. The essential oils obtained by both SFME and HD were analysed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry using apolar and polar capillary columns. The essential oil recovered by SFME was submitted to an odour evaluation that revealed peculiar olfactive characteristics interesting in alcoholic male perfumery and body detergents.In vitro cytotoxicity assays were carried out using NCTC 2544 human keratinocytes as target cells. The oil displayed slight cytotoxic effects, which were three orders of magnitude lower than those found for sodium dodecyl sulphate positive control. The promising results in terms of chemical composition, scent and safety seem to indicate this essential oil as an interesting potential functional ingredient useful in a cosmetic context.

Publication types

  • Comparative Study
  • Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't

MeSH terms

  • Cell Line
  • Cell Survival
  • Formazans / chemistry
  • Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry / methods
  • Humans
  • Keratinocytes / drug effects
  • Male
  • Microwaves
  • Neutral Red / chemistry
  • Odorants
  • Plant Oils / chemistry*
  • Plant Oils / isolation & purification
  • Plant Oils / toxicity
  • Salvia / chemistry*
  • Tetrazolium Salts / chemistry

Substances

  • Formazans
  • Plant Oils
  • Tetrazolium Salts
  • MTT formazan
  • Neutral Red